Mount Clearance
Clearance is the space a bracket needs that nobody measures. Behind the panel, around its edges, and out in front of the wall once an arm starts to travel.
Deciding factors
- Depth from the wall face to the back of the panel with the bracket between them
- Where the connectors sit on the back of the panel and which direction they face
- How far the arm travels forward, and what stands in that path
- Whether anything under the screen is taller than the gap you left
- Whether the panel has to come off the wall for anyone to reach behind it
How to measure
- Measure the gap the bracket createsTake the depth figure from the bracket documentation, not from the photograph. That gap is the entire budget for cables, connectors and fingers.
- Find the connectors on the panelLook at the back of the panel and note whether the sockets face outward or sideways. A connector facing straight out needs its plug depth added to the gap; one facing sideways needs width at the edge instead.
- Add the plug, not just the cableMeasure the connector housing on the cable you intend to use, from the face of the socket to where the cable turns. A slim jacket with a deep housing still needs the depth.
- Sweep the arm on the floor firstFor a moving bracket, mark the extension and swivel travel on the floor with tape and walk it. Doors, lamps, and the corner of a window frame all show up in that sweep.
- Check what is under the screenStand a tape on the furniture below and compare it against the bottom edge of the panel. This is where the soundbar problem is discovered, before the soundbar is bought.
Without buying anything
Clearance is generally found rather than bought. Each of these frees up depth behind the panel without changing a single part.
- Turn the connectors you already own so the cable leaves sideways rather than straight out. It often buys back the whole gap.
- Move the furniture under the screen forward a few inches instead of raising the panel.
- Retract the arm and leave it retracted. Most rooms use the swivel twice a year.
- Route the cable down the side of the panel rather than behind its center, where the bracket plate is.
Common errors
| Error | Consequence | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Planning depth for the cable and not for the connector | The plug will not seat, or it seats and bends hard against the wall. | Measure the connector housing and add it to the bracket gap. |
| Treating the extension figure as clearance in every direction | The arm reaches the stated distance forward and hits a door frame on the swivel. | Tape the full travel on the floor and walk the arc before buying. |
| Choosing a soundbar before measuring the gap beneath the panel | The bar sits proud of the furniture and covers the bottom of the picture. | Measure the distance from the furniture surface to the picture edge first. |
| Assuming you can reach behind a fixed mount later | Adding one cable means taking the panel down again with two people. | Run every cable you might want while the panel is off the wall. |
Before drilling
Stop
Taking a large panel off a wall is a two-person job with the bracket documentation open. If you would not lift it alone, do not plan around lifting it alone.
Note
Every clearance figure quoted for a bracket on this site is what the listing states. Measure your own panel and your own plugs before trusting any of them.